The 10 best bars in Silver Lake

A caveat: As a writer, I understand how these things go. Lists are the ultimate traffic bait. No one agrees with them, so everyone post comments on the story with their approval/disapproval of the contents therein. The story gets passed around and the debate widens, with Facebook pages and Twitter feeds exploding with intelligent commentary like “OMG ARE YOU KIDDING ME THAT IS NOT THE BEST!” “OMG ARE YOU ON CRACK THAT IS THE WORST!” The disgruntled end up campaigning for their favorite forgotten places, and the debate, in essence, helps write a longer and more inclusive list. It’s a win-win for everyone.

So that’s why when Paul Bradley wrote a story entitled “The Best 10 Bars in Silver Lake” for the LA Weekly, as a full-time resident and part-time drinker in the neighborhood, I felt I had to respond with my own picks.

First, some criteria: Bradley’s piece appeared in the Weekly’s music column, so it’s naturally skewed towards clubs. And some of them are fun, but not really what I think of when I hear the word “bar.” Bars are places you can go at 7:00 p.m. or 1:00 a.m. or sometimes 9:00 a.m. and order an alcoholic drink. They have physical bars where transactions and conversations occur with an actual bartender. They might be places that serve food, but you would not feel weird if you were only there for drinking. They are not places where you need tickets to enter. Ever.

Then there’s the other issue: Where, exactly, is Silver Lake? I think the Mapping L.A. project at the Los Angeles Times has decided on some pretty accurate boundaries for my neighborhood. We’ll go with those.

Also? I don’t like the 10-to-1 countdown to THE BEST bar. Bars cannot be judged against other bars as they have different things to offer. These are 10 of my favorite neighborhood bars, in no particular order.

Hyperion Tavern: If the barber pole is spinning outside, then this bar—easily one of the best in the city—is open for business. Glittering chandeliers, floor-to-ceiling bookshelves lined with law encyclopedias and the scariest bathrooms this side of Tijuana. The nights start quiet but inevitably a band or a DJ or a comedy show or an experimental filmmaker will take the stage and you’ll find yourself captivated by the fabulous brand of weirdness that only LA can provide. This is the only bar I’ve ever been to in my running attire (long story) and I didn’t look a bit out of place. Oh yeah, they only serve beer. But when it comes to 40s of Carta Blanca, you only need one.

Malo: Let me tell you about my fantasy bar. It’s walking distance from my house. It has flocked wallpaper. It serves cocktails that mix mezcal and bourbon TOGETHER. It is a bar where you can order tacos filled with beef, pickles and cheddar cheese, three flavors so perfectly suited for each other you’d swear they were cribbed from the menu of the McDonald’s next door. For all these reasons and more, Malo’s bar is one of the best places in Silver Lake to drink. Here’s another one: It’s open all day.

Black Cat: The Black Cat Tavern is where many say the gay rights movement began in 1966—two full years before Stonewall—after a raid and subsequent protests which helped to launch The Advocate. It was named a historic-cultural monument in 2008 and soon after was bought by the Village Idiot folks (who are also delivering a version of their Melrose pub next door). Today, the space pays homage to the Black Cat’s history through framed photos and the original sign outside, but the new place is swanky. Get dressed up and go, so you can meet the bartenders. They’re witty, knowledgable and ready to collaborate. I had a twist on a Manhattan called the Red Hook that makes it very difficult for me to drink a traditional one.

4100 Bar: I can’t recall many specifics about this place. Details come to me in flashes: tapestries covering the wall like I used to have in my dorm room, a sassy female bartender who gave us free shots on Halloween, downing a dozen vodka sodas, eating some kind of grilled meat outside. But the one thing I do remember: It’s dark. Not just romantic dark. So dark you may end up making out with the wrong person dark. Whatever your itinerary was for the evening when you arrived, you will end up with a very different plan when you depart. Another reason to drink here now: Due to a proposal for condos to be built on this very spot, it may not be around for much longer.

Edendale: I have experienced some of the best nights of my Silver Lake life in this former firehouse on Rowena, and I’m sure plenty of my neighbors feel the same way. For our group of friends, this is “our place” and that’s because Edendale lends itself perfectly to so many drinking situations. You can have a beer at the bar by yourself during happy hour. You can have a boozy three-hour brunch in the sun. You can order mac & cheese at 1:00 a.m. after accidentally drinking your way through dinner. The space is huge with multiple rooms and two patios (remember: firehouse) so the sheer numbers alone mandate that you’ll run into someone else you know, end up merging tables and drinking Dark & Stormys well into the night.

Thirsty Crow: It’s not that I’m sentimental for Stinkers, the truck stop themed-establishment that used to occupy this space, with its Burt Reynolds poster and vintage beer can collection and vapor-misting skunk. It’s just that I’m so over the “Prohibition Era” decor which has devoured LA’s bars like a flesh-eating, tweed vest-wearing virus. But then I have a mint julep, served in that cute little silver cup with one of the roughly one billion bourbons they’ve managed to cram behind a quite gorgeous marble-topped bar. By the time I’ve moved on to an Old Fashioned, the pressed-tin ceiling has begun to blur pleasantly and I realize that I do like this bar, very much.

Cha Cha Lounge: It’s like a market research firm crunched the data: What do people want at their drinking establishment? Tiki decor, check. Photobooth, check. Foosball, check. A taco truck outside, check. But somehow it doesn’t feel contrived at all. Some come for the margaritas but my favorite drink here is a Bloody Mary (or Bloody Maria) made with house-pickled green beans. On weekends, the line gets long, the space grows crowded, and the clientele both inside and outside the bar becomes a little rowdy. So be it. Come early (5:00 p.m.) so you can get the best seat at the palapa-topped bar.

Cafe Stella: No, not the walled garden of Bar Stella (although if you go there, be assured that your eyes will be protected from the garish reality of the street not only by said nine-foot wall, but also by a black curtain hung strategically over the sidewalk). Inside the actual restaurant part of Cafe Stella is a golden-lit sliver of a bar populated by eccentric regulars. It’s the only place in the neighborhood that actually succeeds in feeling like you’ve traveled somewhere very far away in both time and place. It’s also the only place where you can order a secret, off-the-menu burger, which is very good.

Akbar: A gay bar, a dive bar, a neighborhood bar, a dance-so-hard-you’ll-want-to-change-your-clothes bar, and one of Silver Lake’s most fun bars, period. They have epic DJ nights but it’s also a very chill place to drink very cheap, very strong drinks on a Sunday night. One year during Sunset Junction—when there still was such a thing—I danced to hip hop here for five hours and by the time I went home I had made about 35 new best friends. The best part: When I came back a few weeks later, a few of them were there again, too.

L&E Oyster Bar: Even if you’re not feeling like oysters, even if you don’t really want the smoked mussels with chorizo toast, even if you are seriously not going to partake in the ridiculously good clam chowder, this is still one of the best places in the city to order a glass of truly excellent rosé on a warm summer evening (and if you ask nicely, they’ll slide a packet of oyster crackers over the bar). Now there’s an expanded space on the second floor with a separate bar menu and more room to drink. Also, like their sister bar, Bar Covell: Easily the nicest and most attentive bartenders in town.

Now, since my rules for determining this list are very rigid, as a bonus, here are a few more recommendations…

Four more bars I really love which are so Silver Lake-adjacent you may indeed consider them to be Silver Lake: Smog CutterTiki-TiEl Chavito, The Virgil.

A non-bar which manages to be one of the best places in Silver Lake for drinking:Silverlake Wine’s in-store tasting events.

And one place in Silver Lake that’s thisclose to becoming a great bar, and I think it will happen this year: Cliff’s Edge. For a glimpse of what that will look like, come here on Wednesday nights, when Matt Biancaniello does guest appearances behind the bar.

Wow, this is beginning to sound like the world’s best walking tour…

Buzzed: NYC Coffee Guide

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 New York is filled with great fashion, music, art… And coffee! In the city that never sleeps, there's nothing quite like relaxing at a café with a delicious cup of coffee while reading a magazine (or these days an iPad). Here is a round-up of our fave coffee spots. Enjoy!

#1 Abraco - 86 E 7th St, East Village Tucked away on a quiet corner of the East Village, Abraco is our number one spot to get a truly well done caffeine jolt. Though tiny, the place boasts big flavor in their espresso drinks made from state-of-the-art equipment. We also love their iced coffee for a strong but refreshing and rejuvenating pick-me-up. The best part of Abraco? They offer a variety of options for a quick bite, ranging from cakes (must try the olive oil cake) to frittatas and decadent pastries. Heads up: they don't offer skim milk or artificial sweeteners. Its also cash only.

#2 Blue Bottle Coffee - 160 Berry St., Williamsburg SF transplants will appreciate the familiarity in the New York shops of this Oakland original. We like Blue Bottle's Williamsburg outpost the best, where you can grab a cup of coffee expertly crafted in one of their Japanese halogen-powered siphons, and follow with a lazy stroll through the neighborhood. It's a nice change of pace compared to Blue Bottle's other shop located in the heart of bustling, tourist-heavy Chelsea.

#3 Gimme Coffee - 228 Mott St., Nolita Venture down to Nolita for a great espresso from Gimme Coffee, a New York state exclusive coffee shop with heavy roots in philanthropy. They also sell a variety of their coffee blends, which serve as great gifts in the holiday season. Our favorite is the ever-popular Java Kayumas, a rich roast with caramel notes.

#4 BlueBird - 72 E 1st St., East Village If you're lucky enough to snag a seat in this little shop, it is a very pleasant spot to sit and sip an artfully created latte, complete with perfectly composed swirls of milk, as you read a book. Be sure to enjoy one of Bluebird's deliciously moist muffins as you take in the quaint, rustic bluebird-motif decor.

#5 Mud Truck - MudShop, 307 E 9th St., East Village You can't come to New York and not have a cup of Joe from Mud, one of the original food trucks of Manhattan. Stop by their truck stationed on Astor Place beside the uptown 6, or better yet, visit their cafe on 9th St, one of our favorite streets in the East Village. Cozy up on one of the seats by the window, or grab a hippie blend to go and check out the many shops on the street (Verameat and the Upper Rust are our faves!).

#6 Cocoa Bar - 21 Clinton St., Lower East Side This LES spot has a mellow vibe, enough chocolatey treats to satisfy the sweetest of sweet tooth's, and an assortment of wines if you're looking for a different kind of buzz. But the hands-down best thing about Cocoa Bar are their iced coffees, preserved cool and strong with coffee ice cubes. Need we say more?

#7 La Colombe - 270 Lafayette St., SoHo We first discovered La Colombe in it's native Philadelphia, and were thrilled to learn of three New York locations. We can't think of a better lifesaver for staying alert through a busy morning than their bottled, cold pressed "Pure Black" iced coffee. An instant wake up call and staple in our refrigerators!

#8 Bel Ami - 30 E 68th St., Upper East Side If you find yourself in the Upper East Side, stop by this French cafe for a latte and a quick bite. It has just the kind of inviting ambiance that makes it a perfect place to spend a rainy Sunday, or to take a break from a stroll in nearby Central Park. If you want to know what keeps us coming back to this gem, we'll tell you a secret: their salted caramel macaroons are so decadent, they're levels above the ones at the nearby Laduree!

#9 Cafe Grumpy - 383 7th Ave., Park Slope Brooklyn-ites swear by the Park Slope location of Cafe Grumpy, a coffee shop with a steeper price tag than most, but with the beans to back it up. Each cup is individually brewed with expertise and care from impressively sourced beans. This spot is mostly a grab it and go place - for a coffee hangout with a bit friendlier service, we'd opt for their LES joint. Either way, you can't go wrong with their espresso.

#10 The Smile - 26 Bond St., NoHo If you're looking for ambiance, this is it. Nestled on quiet Bond Street beneath the sidewalk, The Smile is perhaps our most beloved place to leisurely converse over a steamy cappuccino and a small bite or two. It is warm, embracing and relaxed - the ideal place to catch up with a friend or two on a lazy day.

Best Dive Bars in SF

What makes a great dive bar? You obviously need to have the bare necessities such as a pool table, a jukebox, and regulars to even be considered among the greats. But it’s usually the intangible things that make a dive bar special. San Francisco is home to some of the best dives in the world. Below is a list of some of the best the city has to offer.

1.   Uptown 200 Capp Street There’s absolutely nothing considered ‘uptown’ about this bar, but good people and good times is what makes this place a winner. Sink into one of the plush couches in the back and you’ll feel right at home here.

2. Benders 806 South Van Ness Avenue  Aside from being an awesome dive for bikers, both pedal and moto, its got a grill in the back serving the best vegetarian bar food in the city. Fried pickles, mac n cheese burgers, and seitan buffalo wings are some perennial favorites.

3. Terry’s Lodge 1368 Irving Street Stop by Terry’s on your way home from a day at Ocean Beach. Filled with locals and weirdos, Terry’s is an Inner Sunset staple.

4.  Li PO 916 Grant Avenue This bar looks like it was pulled straight out of the movie Big Trouble in Little China. On Sunday nights you can get your boogie on at the Sweater-funk party in the basement.

5. Mr. Bing’s 201 Columbus Avenue  Another amazing Chinatown dive. No beers on tap means it’s only for serious drinkers. Also, I’d recommend against playing Liar’s Dice with the bartender unless you’re prepared to face the consequences.

6. Phone Booth 1398 South Van Ness Avenue One of the last few remaining bars that let you smoke inside through a little legal loophole. Phone booth has cheap drinks, velvet paintings, and a chandelier made of Barbie dolls...So 3 thumbs up.

7. Toronado 547 Haight Street  Everyone and their mother knows that Toronado is the place to go for the best beer selection in the city. Just be ready to order when you get to the bar, because we’re waiting behind you.

8.  Lucky 13 2140 Market Street A bit kitsch, a bit trashy, and a bit punk. It’s also dog friendly, so take your four legged friends.

*Steven Le is a native of San Francisco, works as an ER doctor, and lives in the Mission District. When not at any of the above bars, you can find him out and about hunting for the city’s best sandwiches. www.tumblr.com/blog/wichhunter

LA’s Original Subway

By now almost everyone knows (I hope!) that LA has a subway system. But did you know that this is not the first subway that LA has ever had?

Behold the Subway Terminal Building, hidden in plain sight in the middle of downtown LA, where at one point during the 1940's over 65,000 riders were shuffling down into the depths of Los Angeles to board a train which traveled beneath the busy streets. And, fittingly, it’s just a block from where you might board the Red Line subway today.

The Subway Terminal Building was built in 1925 by Leonard Schultze and S. Fullerton Weaver, the same architects who designed the Biltmore Hotel a block away, the Jonathan Club on 5th and Figueroa, and the Waldorf Astoria in New York City. It was actuallyapproved in a bond measure passed by Los Angeles voters—in the same election where another bond measure was passed approving a new City Hall.

I forgot to take a photo of it yesterday, but if you walk down Hill, you can see this lettering on the entrance to the lobby of the building (photo via), which is now owned by Forest City Development. That’s who conducted our de LaB tour yesterday, along with John Lesak of Page & Turnbull, whose offices are in the building, plus Evan Janney of Metro 417, the building’s new name.

Passing through an unassuming black glass door, we started the tour in the huge ground floor space (which was big enough to be a grocery store, HINT) where we heard apresentation by John Lesak on the building’s renovation. As we maneuvered around the left-behind belongings of former Metro 417 tenants, above us you could see the years reflected in the ceiling. The bland, white tiles were peeling back, revealing an older, ornamental plaster ceiling…

Look familiar?

Even up here, you could see little hints of the subway station below.

And with that, we headed downstairs.

The next stop was a little sub-floor that felt exactly like walking through a New York subway station. This guy wasn’t around anymore, unfortunately.

And here’s where we started to see the real evidence that the subway once existed: signage!

And more signage. Look at the cute little pointing hand!

Suddenly we found ourselves in a vast, pillared space that, even with the tracks and trains removed, felt very much like a subway station.

Here’s what it looked like back then.

You can still see plenty of those Exit signs.

So if you’re standing where this photo was taken, and you turn around and climb through a little hole in the wall, you see this…

Um, yeah. This is LA.

With a little bit of Saw 3 thrown in.

It was very dark. And very damp—the space had flooded during the recent rains—but there was a tunnel that we couldn’t quite see the end of, so there was nothing we could do but walk…

Here’s looking back the other way, towards the platform, with de LaB spelunkers heading down the tunnel.

We did reach the end, where there was, of course, graffiti. After being used as a fallout shelter, the tunnel was sealed in the 1960s. Supposedly the Bonaventure’s parking garage is now on the other side. I’d love to go down there and see if there are any traces of the tunnel. However…

You can still visit the other end of the (sealed up) tunnel. This is at the Belmont Stationapartments, at the intersection of Beverly and 2nd. And—plug time—you can see it during the Big Parade, where we walk from Angels Flight to the Hollywood sign, coming up May 19 and 20.

If you look at the old maps of the Red Car (here’s a cool interactive version here that actually shows a lot of the staircases around the old stations) you’ll see how the tunnel shaved off travel times by going under Bunker Hill and emerging on the other side to connect with other lines. There’s lots, lots more on the Hollywood Subway over at LAist. And more on the Pacific Electric system over at PacificElectric.org.

Of course, all I could think about was what potential this place had. How about a subway-themed nightclub? Or dinner parties on the platform? Underground dining, indeed!

And the naming possibilities are endless. Track 3?

Update: Yes, de LaB are planning on hosting this tour again, please sign up for the de LaB newsletter to be the first to find out about their upcoming events!

SF Ferry Building

Its taken us a little while but we finally got to sorting out the photos from our San Francisco trip. This particular batch of photos is from our quick visit to the legendary Ferry Building - the Bay Area's vibrant gathering of local farmers, artisan producers, and independently owned and operated food businesses located along the Embarcadero at the foot of Market Street. Ferry Building Marketplace One Ferry Building San Francisco, California 94111 (415) 983-8030

Far West Fungi - the specialized mushroom shop where you can pick up fresh seasonal truffles and of course regular mushrooms as well.

Boccalone Salumeria features more than 20 varieties of their handmade cured meats, batched right across the bay in Oakland.

Stonehouse California Olive Oil - the name pretty much says it all, but Stonehouse is best known for its citrus flavored oils.

The Ferry Building is the only place in the Bay Area where you can get a full selection of Acme's artisan breads.

Are you hungry yet? I'm pairing these photos on purpose! Cowgirl Creamery Artisan Cheese is a European style cheese shop is right smack in the middle of the Ferry Building.

The Frog Hollow Farm sells a variety of farm fresh organic seasonal fruits, farm made fruit preserve, and assorted pastries.

Obviously, we had to stop by and grab a bite at one of the many eateries at the Ferry Building, so being the meat lover that I am, I went straight to Prather Ranch Meat Co. 

I got the Smoked Beef sandwich ($10) that the manager recommended. The sandwich came on a rustic roll with thinly sliced smoked Prather Ranch Beef, griddled onions, provolone & horseradish sauce.

The sandwich was just what I needed after a long day of staring at delicious food. The bread was nice and soft and the meat was definitely flavorful and tender. I wish there was a bit more horseradish, but I just like a kick to my food.

Anyway, I definitely recommend you take the trip out to the Ferry Building next time you're in the area.